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Tesla- Kapanadze generator

Started by Romero, October 15, 2011, 09:38:14 PM

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eagle

Quote from: Romero on December 23, 2011, 05:22:34 PM
@eagle
Thank you for the info posted, very interesting - the leyden-jar experiment I've done too some time ago after seing the same video you posted.

Regards,
Romero

ok, now if you apply what Eue Jin Jeong has shown ( asymetric capacitor) to a Leyden jar then this should give a boost.

Regards

eagle

jimboot

Thanks @romero for the forum. Hope to replicate the circuit soon. Family & xmas are demanding attention atm :) Are your resistors just metallic film?

Hitman

@romero
I put together a replication of your schematic but using a coil wound on a glass tube, results were a bit disappointing but I will try with a HV transformer as soon as xmass is past. scope shots were not even worth taking. 

Heres a couple of pics of my setup and a pic of the hv transformer I plan to use.

Cheers Hitman

PS: Merry Xmass and a happy New Year all.

Romero

Quote from: jimboot on December 24, 2011, 02:08:30 AM
Thanks @romero for the forum. Hope to replicate the circuit soon. Family & xmas are demanding attention atm :) Are your resistors just metallic film?
Hi,
yes, the resistors are just metalic film.



The schematic I shown is for the flyback transformer for the air core tube you need to modify it or even use a standard kacher circuit. As I said before, you need to be able to charge fast C1 and have a spark, no charge-no spark then = nothing .
For my existing air core setup i am using the circuit below. This circuit can be used for many applications, it is very reliable and strong. I have used it for my induction heater too and works very good. Thic circuit melted my copper wire inside ferite tube... the capacitor 0.68uf is very important, change the value of it to change frequency.

Romero

member77

#154
Thank you, Romero, for posting the "simple OU self-charger".

I am trying to take the step by step approach you recommend, using two 12 V-batteries and a D13009K transistor
http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/410821/JSMC/3DD13009K-O-C-N-B.html
from an old PC power supply.
But I instantly ran into a problem because the flyback-transformer(s) I have available, all have the internal diode.
Luckily you addressed this problem:
Quote from: Romero on December 23, 2011, 11:22:51 PMThe flyback with internal diode we can use too, without AV Plug, connected in normal fashion and negative to the ground.
But I don't understand.
I eliminated the AV-plug and now have only 1 diode (the flyback's internal one).
I have put everything together as in my schematic (see below). The flyback's original HV-cable is going towards the spark gap. Is that correct?

And also I am not sure, what to do with C1 - if I have attached it correctly?
I guess the way I am doing it (as in my schematic)  is not correct, as the minus-pole of the left battery is now only connected to the circuit via C1?

I would be grateful if you could give me some advice.

Edit: I saw Romero's response with the correct schematic. Thanks. So I deleted the wrong schematic I had originally posted here.
Will test more and let you know.

Romero

@member77
this is how you need to connect it if you have internal diode. You can also add a capacitor between the coil and ground cable.
Success!

Romero

Merry Christmas everyone!

Romero

landownunder

Merry Christmas  All the best everyone and a happy and safe new year.  I hope everyone is safe and happy for Christmas with their families as that is the most important thing in the world. Best wishes Ron from aussie ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D :) :) :) :) :)

JoeFR

Hi all members of this great forum

Merry Christmas to all  :)

JoeFR

Romero

In the picture below we cannot see any ground wire while the device is in operation.

dllabarre

#160
Merry Christmas to all of you!
and
Happy New Year.

DonL

member77

#161
Thank your Romero, for providing a circuit diagram for the self-charger, applicable for a flyback transformer with internal diode.
I started to modify my setup to implement this.

I can not make any definite statements about charging, yet, because I can only run it for about half a minute, because the transistor gets quite hot.
I will have to find a remedy for that.

However, I get a very strong white "spark" across the spark gap. Actually it is more like a white arc. There is also a strong smell of ozone, just as Romero describes.
When I disconnect C1, only a feeble blue streamer remains across the spark gap.

When connecting an analog Volt-meter across the batteries, I can see that the Voltage rises from 24 V (setup not running) to approx. 30 V while the setup is running. This is surely unusual. This measurement only works with an analog meter. My cheap digital meter goes crazy when I connect it to the battery terminals while the circuit is in operation.

@All
Member Collapsingfield inspired me:
instead of an industrially manufactured HV-cap for C1 I am using 2 to 3 meters of antenna cable (coaxial cable). I connect the cable's core as one electrode and the shield/braid as the other. The back-end of the cable (core and shield) are left non-connected. I am very pleased with this.

JoeFR

Hi all

I made two short videos from testing kacher setup.

Charging CAP 680uF 200V AV Plug:


Ligh Bulb 220V 25W:


I will try Romero self charging circuit now and post the results.

JoeFR

member77

#163
Hi JoeFR,

thanks for posting your videos.
I have two questions:
#1) Please what is the purpose of the switch in the schematic?
Just to initially start oscillations in the circuit?

#2) when you change the load from AV-plug and cap to the bulb, does this make retuning of the device necessary? Or can you simply disconnect the AV-plug and cap and attach the bulb in their place?

BTW: It is interesting that the current that lights the bulb, can not be measured with an AMP-meter.

JoeFR

Hi member77

#1) Please what is the purpose of the switch in the schematic?
It is a push button
Just to initially start oscillations in the circuit?
Yes I just press it for the moment for the oscillations to start

#2) when you change the load from AV-plug and cap to the bulb, does this make retuning of the device necessary?
No
Or can you simply disconnect the AV-plug and cap and attach the bulb in their place?
Yes I can disconnect AV-plug and connect the bulb instead. When circuit is started it is very hard to stop it ( only if you have low voltage in battery )

BTW: It is interesting that the current that lights the bulb, can not be measured with an AMP-meter.
In my opinion is HF current so DC meter is not able to show it. The secondary coil operates between 120 - 145 khz.

JoeFR