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Tesla- Kapanadze generator

Started by Romero, October 15, 2011, 09:38:14 PM

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TEKTRON

Quote from: Romero on November 01, 2011, 08:29:58 PM
@Hitman
I have used every method I can think of.. the white noise I generated with the pc. that part is not critical but the other 50 Hz input is my problem now.
I am thinking of a different circuit to get it right. Today I am not doing anything as I have not enough sleep last night.

Romero

Romero, I know this post is a bit late but why couldn't you use a low voltage trans running on house current with a 5w resistor in series on the secondarys for your 50hz carrier jutst for testing? That way you would only need to risk one sig jenny.

Romero

Quote from: TEKTRON on November 09, 2011, 01:50:05 AM
Quote from: Romero on November 01, 2011, 08:29:58 PM
@Hitman
I have used every method I can think of.. the white noise I generated with the pc. that part is not critical but the other 50 Hz input is my problem now.
I am thinking of a different circuit to get it right. Today I am not doing anything as I have not enough sleep last night.

Romero

Romero, I know this post is a bit late but why couldn't you use a low voltage trans running on house current with a 5w resistor in series on the secondarys for your 50hz carrier jutst for testing? That way you would only need to risk one sig jenny.
Hi,
i tried that too but no success, I think that my ferrite is not right or maybe I need different frequencyes. I have to build another coil using the yoke from a monitor, I have 2 of them and I will try them today.

Regards,
Romero

free_nrg

#32
Romero,
Are you testing with the braid between the two halfs, like in these pics? Its been said on the forums that you shouldn't have it like that. It should be looping over, or connected by a wire looping over the ferrite. Braid also shouldn't touch ferrite at all. Good luck with further testing.
I'm waiting on signal generators...


Romero

Quote from: free_nrg on November 10, 2011, 08:44:47 PM
Romero,
Are you testing with the braid between the two halfs, like in these pics? Its been said on the forums that you shouldn't have it like that. It should be looping over, or connected by a wire looping over the ferrite. Braid also shouldn't touch ferrite at all. Good luck with further testing.
I'm waiting on signal generators...

Originaly I had it wrong then I cut the braid ends and it is looped over now. Braid is not touching ferrite at all.Today I had some better results, I can see some difference when the HV is applied, all after adding capacitors to the braid.... NO OU still
I also had some playing with LaserSaber joule ringer and there I got very good results. I will post some info later

Romero

Romero

Kapanadze used foil copper for the coil/capacitor in his aquarium generator, look at the pictures below.

Romero

#35
Here is a tested schematic that should work for anyone, this is the most easy arrangement.
The caduceus coil in the picture is what I used for this experiment.

Happy Christmas everyone!

Romero

landownunder

What are you telling us with this circuit romero as i am not familiar with the setup at all. all the best wishes from ron

Romero

Quote from: landownunder on December 03, 2011, 01:41:02 PM
What are you telling us with this circuit romero as i am not familiar with the setup at all. all the best wishes from ron
just make a caduceus coil like the one shown in the picture, at one end of the caduceus you connect the capacitor at the other end the spark gap and the diodes.
On top of the caduceus we have the output coil wound on a piece of plastic pipe a little bit bigger
than caduceus coil diameter to allow you to slide left and right.
The number of turns are not very important initially, once you are confident it works you can play with right number of turns... nothing is critical here, use anything you have and have it started.
You must understand that when the spark occurs it closes the caduceus coil inducing power to the output coil. the spark gap remains cold. use small value capacitors with high voltage capability.
We need fast switching at the spark gap and that can be obtain with small value capacitor. 

Regards,
Romero

Romero

I am getting messages regarding caduceus coil being difficult to be built. If it is that difficult then just start with a bifilar winding just pay attention at the wireing, one end of one coil connects to the capacitor and the other end of the capacitor goes to the begining of the other coil.The ends left of the coil to the diodes and spark gap...

I hope that helps.
Romero

free_nrg

Should the output coil be caduceus wind also, like in your previous pics?

Romero

Quote from: free_nrg on December 03, 2011, 05:19:25 PM
Should the output coil be caduceus wind also, like in your previous pics?
output coil can be a normal wound coil

garrym

Hi Romero,

Thank you for the present.

If you can spare some time (I hate asking), could you please also post a pic of your output coil
and possibly some dimensions.

I have been hesitant to dabble with this, but not so long ago, built the HV section from a flyback
running from just a couple of volts and providing a nice spark.

From your pic of the CC, it seems that there are well over 80 or 90 turns, and I wonder the aprrox
length and diameter of the CC.

Please feel no pressure. Patience abounds.

Thanks, Garry

mariuscivic

Hi Romero!
Thanks for the Christmas pesent  :) .
If i use the plasma ball HV sparks, should be enough ?

garrym

#43
Can anyone remember the link to the youtube of how to wiind a CC?

Garry

Found it -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjr7pDXsmkg

garrym

For an easy way to make CC -

take length of speaker wire, figure 8 flex and wind with a simple twist - flip the wire over 180 degrees.

Heres a pic.

I need to confirm though, is is only one flip per turn OR is there another flip on the backside ?